Osage Hills, OK and Bartlesville
This state park is within the boundaries of the Osage Indian Reservation, and was built in the 1930's by the CCC. The drive from the state highway to the park headquarters is nearly a mile long, a winding road through the forest. We thought maybe we were lost, but found a park ranger near the headquarters who collected our camping fee (eighteen dollars) and said to pick any open site to park in. There were only about fifteen campsites cut into a hilly area with a small creek running through it. We found a site midway between two bathhouses, and Howard backed in without too much difficulty. All of the camp sites were among the trees, twenty feet tall and leafy and cool. It was really like being in the forest, except with water and electricity! There was a family camped nearby in three sites, full of tents and kids. We walked up to a huge area cleared and staked for tent campers, but because of heavy spring rains, it was full of mud and puddles. There was a big lookout constructed of stone by the CCC, overlooking the lake. A short path called lakeside wound down from the lookout, so we walked though the woods and found a little canoe launch area on the corner of the dam that created the lake.
One of the bath houses on the campground was unisex handicapped accessible, and had the newest and cleanest showers, so we showered together for fifty cents. The campground was nearly full at sunset, with a mix of RV’s and tents. We liked the park and wanted to explore the other trails in the park, so we decided to spend a second night. We had dinner and turned in for the night.
The lady we spoke to at the Beaver Creek park had said to check out Bartlesville, for the fancy houses along the road. The Osage Hills park was just ten miles down the road, so we headed out in the morning to explore the town. By accident we found the town museum, on the fifth floor of town hall. This town of Bartlesville was the origin of the Oklahoma oil boom, started by the Phillips brothers (as in Phillips Petroleum). The brothers had started out with cattle land, but were having trouble with black tar that kept floating up on the surface of a watering hole. That “black tar” is now called Texas Sweet Crude oil, and the original gusher well still stands near the middle of town.
At the peak of the oil rush, oil rigs dotted the landscape for miles. The town boasted several millionaires, and over ten thousand people. One of those oil millionaires even commissioned Frank Lloyd Wright to design his corporate office building. It is the only tall building that Wright designed, standing ten stories tall in downtown Bartlesville. It is so notable, it is on the cover of the state visitors’ guide.
Back at the campground, we took a longer hike through the forest that had views of the hills and woods of the park. Although the daylight hours were warm enough to be out without a jacket, it was cold enough at night to still require the little space heater to warm us.