Quartzite, AZ
We had heard things about this desert town through the RV forums and Trailer Life Magazine. It seemed to be a "snowbird" town, but filled with a different sort of character. Our route on I-10 to Phoenix would take us through Quartzite, so we stopped to take a look and satisfy our curiosity.
We missed the first exit for the town, but one mile down the highway was the second exit. That was the size of the town, one mile long. The main street of town ran parallel to the highway, from one freeway exit to the other. There was town only on the north side of the road, and to the south the scrub desert stretched out for miles. The town did not extend any farther in any direction. There were restaurants, businesses and a few RV parks along the main street, but over half were closed for the season.
It was late enough, and we were curious enough, so we found an open campground that charged $10 a night. We parked, did some laundry, and asked the guy who checked us in where to get a beer and some ESPN. He directed us to Crazy Al’s, a local bar just down the road.
It was still happy hour when we got in, so we got a couple drafts and started talking to a guy on the bar. He was waiting for his wife, the bartender; she worked for the season while he just hung out. The season for Quartzite was from November to March, and peaked in January. The thing that makes Quartzite different from other snowbird destinations is you can get a permit from the US Bureau of Land Management for about $100 for the season, and camp in the desert. You just pick a spot and park it. There are no hookups, so you drive into town to dump your tanks and get fresh water, and live off your batteries and propane. Many people have solar panels for electricity.
Because it is so cheap to camp there, people come from all over to spend the winter in Quartzite. The guy told us in the off season the local population numbers about one thousand. Most businesses are closed, and all that remains is a gas station and one restaurant. But during season, the population swells to two million, most of whom are camping out in the desert. The town is booming, with some businesses open twenty-four hours a day. There are flea markets every weekend, and RV rallies and fairs.
Most of the folks that were still around were the last of the seasonal workers, winding down the town. Even the Crazy Al’s bar was due to close in less than two weeks.
We drove off for Phoenix in the morning, hoping to someday see Quartzite during the winter season.